What is it about Paris that is so polarizing? People either harbour intense amour for the City of Lights, or are perfectly happy to skip it. I’m firmly in the “love” camp, but I can see how visitors could be overwhelmed by the city. With a maze-like metro system, long lines for museums and monuments, and the anxiety that comes with attempting your high school French, it can be intimidating. 

We’ve visited Paris a few times, but our recent trip to Paris was my favourite. All those amazing museums? We skipped ‘em. The Michelin star restaurants? Hard pass. The Champs-Élysées stroll? Nope. I’m not saying you shouldn’t do these things, but it’s entirely possible to have an amazing visit to this iconic city without doing anything on the “Paris Must Do” list. 

As someone who scours the internet for travel itinerary suggestions, I love nothing more than collecting recommendations about fun finds. I have pins in Google Maps for all the places I’ve been, plan to visit, and “maybe someday” locations. More often than not, it’s the lesser-known places or Insta-unfamous stops that prove to be the most interesting. Maybe it’s because there’s a joy that comes from exploring and discovery. Also, fighting crowds to take a selfie is not my idea of fun.

As our first significant trip without kids in tow, we simply picked a few neighbourhoods (or districts, known as arrondissements) and spent time getting to know them. We wandered into anywhere that looked interesting, beautiful, or delicious. Our week was minimally structured, completely unhurried, and ridiculously enjoyable. 

“Apéro,” short for “apéritif,” is a French social custom involving drinks and light snacks before a meal, typically dinner.

For this trip, we mostly stuck to the Right Bank (Rive Droite), which is basically everything north of the Seine River. While there are fourteen arrondissements (Arr) in the Right Bank, we focused on the Marais (Arr 4), Temple (Arr 3), and the area around Canal Saint-Martin (Arr 11). This vibrant area has no shortage of cafes, restaurants, and shops to explore.

This trip, we spent a significant time mastering the art of the French apéro during our trip. This tradition of late-day drinks and snacks is a great way to people-watch while soaking up the culture. Think of it as a refined happy hour that stretches out longer into the evening, with lovely finger foods and charcuterie. No chicken wings here. It feels so civilized to watch people gather – in the park, on the patio, in the cafes – to catch up and socialize. 

This week, I’m sharing some of our favourite spots to enjoy apéro. If you have your own Paris recommendations, I’d love to hear about them in the comments!  

Beyond the Usual Sips

Hands down, Le Barav was a favourite spot. We visited several times, enjoying the tiny but lively patio and excellent wine selection. They have a wine cellar, so you can take home a bottle if you find something you love. We were consistently impressed with their spot-on wine recommendations, as well as their snack selection. If your idea of a great evening is fantastic wine, charcuterie, and people-watching, this is your spot. Note: Non-alcoholic options available. No reservations.  6 Rue Charles-François Dupuis, 75003 Paris, France

One late rainy night, we took cover in Le Mary Celeste on our walk back home. What a find! This cozy, warm spot was bubbling with great energy and a wonderful small plates menu that changes daily. We loved the neighbourhood vibe and natural wines available here. (As someone who doesn’t do well with much more than a glass of wine without an inevitable headache, I was surprised at how well I felt after two glasses of natural wine.)  1 Rue Commines, 75003 Paris, France

Although it was a tricky one to find, The Perchoir Ménilmontant (“The Perch”) was worth the time we spent aimlessly wandering while searching for this hidden gem. This relaxed-chic rooftop terrace on top of an industrial building has comfy outdoor seating and is surrounded by lush plants with amazing 360° views across the city. Plenty of cocktails and snack options, and there’s a restaurant below the bar for a great dinner. If you find yourself in a sketchy-looking elevator going up to the 7th floor, you’re in the right place. Reservations recommended.  14 Rue Crespin du Gast, 75011 Paris, France

An unbeatable combination of beautifully curated wine and friendly, knowledgeable staff can be found at Les Amoureuses. This candlelit spot is the perfect place for a chill evening with warm, cosy vibes. Delicious small plates. Perfect spot for date night.  3 Rue des Tournelles, 75004 Paris

The Right Bank has several hidden gems that provide the perfect apero spot.

DIY Apéro

When in doubt, you can always head to a local park or green space. When the sun was out, we saw many people who gathered outside to enjoy their beverages and snacks. While parks often have bans on alcohol consumption, we saw many people discreetly enjoying a glass of wine. Keeping a low profile with a bag or basket would be advisable. Be sure to remove all picnic remnants, as litter and food waste have contributed to the rather ghastly rat population. (You’ll be fine – they’re not scurrying around until after dark.)

Are you apéro aficionado? What’s your favourite spot?